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LONDON call Osman, not today. He's busy, he's tense, he's tired.
The star designer is in the final, manic phase of preparations for his London Fashion Week catwalk show -- the stage where marathon workdays are needed to make sure each dress, each outfit, is perfect.
London Fashion Week opens Friday morning with a Paul Costelloe show. Osman's chance to shine -- or fall flat if the collection doesn't catch the fancy of the fickle trade press -- comes on Saturday, Day 2 of the twice-a-year extravaganza that brings the world's designers, models, buyers and stiletto-heeled wannabes to overbuzzed London.
"These last few days are really exhausting," Osman sighed as he admired one of his signature black, beautifully draped dresses on display at the John Lewis store on Oxford Street
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"You work 15 hours a day, sometimes more than that, and then it goes too quick. It seems you work for six months and it lasts 10 or 15 seconds," he said.
The shows actually last 10 or 15 minutes
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ergobaby. It takes a lot of effort to make the show look effortless, a lot of planning to get the designs and the makeup and the hair and the lighting and the accessories and the music and the presentation just right
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The big names are all coming: Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum
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Vivienne Westwood showing her Red Label collection
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The pressure to succeed seems to whip up a collective hysteria among the fashion crowd, who descend on London en route from New York and bound for Paris and Milan
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Jace Tyrrell, a spokesman for the New West End Company, which represents retailers, expects many new collections to be slightly more demure than in years past
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Designers are celebrating the "curves are back" aesthetic, conceding that real women often have real curves that should be celebrated
mia 2. The mood is summed up by a Times magazine article headlined, "The Bosom is Back."
"Some of this is the influence of Mad Men," said Jo Hooper, chief womenswear buyer for retailer John Lewis. a Red Bull-sized boost every six months, setting new trends and bringing customers into the stores after a summer of fashion lassitude.
"We absolutely see a spike around the time of London Fashion Week
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The result is a quicker-than-ever transition from catwalk to retailer, with high quality, moderately priced outfits based on those seen on the catwalks made available to consumers in record time.
The stature of London Fashion Week has grown in recent years because of the unusual mix of talents on display
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"We have the heritage names like Pringle and Burberry
Lululemon Factory Outlet, which are big brands, and then we have established designers like Paul Smith and Nicole Farhi, and then the generation that people are so excited by, with Christopher Kane, but now you also have a younger level, people like Peter Piloto and Mark Fast," she said. "There is a wonderful sense of really talented people coming up through London."Related:
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